The right way to install a toilet - Woodland Hills

Has your toilet developed distasteful shades of usage or common gaps and hair line cracks? Why not make it a project and do it yourself. Toilets are heavy, so please use good judgment and see if this project is fit for you. The last thing you want to explain to your doctor is the reason for you being in the emergency room, especially for a toilet replacement project.

Step 1

Measure the distance from the rearmost bowl hold-down bolts to the finished wall behind the toilet before purchasing your new toilet', Ask your retailer for help if your rough-in varies Most toilets are designed with a 12" rough-in. This is called the toilet's rough-in.

Step 2

Holding the trip-lever down to let all the water run out then flush the toilet to empty its tank. The first step is to turn off the toilet's water supply', Sop out any remaining water in the tank and bowl with a sponge–make sure they're both empty.

Step 3

You may need to hold the fill valve with pliers from inside the tank to keep it from turning Use a large', adjustable open-end wrench to unthread the coupling nut between the toilet tank and its water supply.

Step 4

Tanks are commonly held to the bowl by two long bolts', The nuts are located beneath the flange at the rear of the toilet bowl. Now you're ready to remove the original tank.

Step 5

Or, you can simply saw the elbow with a hacksaw Use a trap wrench or water pump pliers for the slip jam nuts', If your toilet tank mounts to the wall and feeds the bowl with a large, first remove the elbow sweeping elbow.

Step 6

Make sure that the job you are doing is precise remove the tank from the wall', As you unscrew the tank from the wall, support it so it doesn't fall.

Step 7

Some toilet bowls have four hold-downs Follow up by, taking out the toilet bowl. ', Typically, the bowl is fastened to the floor with two hold-down bolts and nuts beneath trim caps.

Step 8

The use of tape is very important in order to protect the bowl's finish from the saw teethe or you can use a regular hacksaw a mini-hacksaw works best', Unscrew the nuts. You can saw them off if you have trouble.

Step 9

Be sure to hold the bowl level to avoid spilling any trap-sealing water. ', You may need help to lift the tank and bowl together. Lift it properly with your back straight and put the weight on your legs You can lift the bowl and carry it out of the house once loosened. Now loosen the bowl/seat unit by rocking it to break its seal with the floor and toilet flange.

Step 10

6. You'll need to place some tarps or towel rags inside the sewer drain hole in order to block the sewer gases from entering into the room.',

Step 11

Remove the old hold-down bolts–don't reuse them. First do a complete cleanup to get ready for the new toilet', Remove any old putty and wax from the floor and toilet flange. You can use a screwdriver or putty knife. You may want to clean and paint the wall behind the toilet. If you're going to replace the bathroom floor covering, this is an excellent opportunity Clean the floor thoroughly in case the new toilet's footprint is different.

Step 12

At this point, install any new water supply plumbing you plan to add.', A new fixture supply valve and flexible riser tube is easy to install and offers shutoff convenience later.The valve attaches to a short length of water supply pipe coming from the wall or floor. Have the riser tube handy but out of the way of the new tank.

Step 13

Install the bolts so they are the same distance from the rear wall Don't try to use ordinary bolts', The hold-downs screw directly into the wood floor in a cast iron piping system. Install a new pair of toilet hold-down bolts. Whatever the situation, your retailer should have them. If there are holes or slots for the bolts in the toilet flange, they should be inserted in the openings.

Step 14

Don't try to reuse the old gasket–install a new one Seal the toilet to its soil pipe flange at the floor by placing a ready-made wax toilet ring gasket over the bowl's outlet horn', 10. Don't try to reuse the old gasket–install a new one Seal the toilet to its soil pipe flange at the floor by placing a ready-made wax toilet ring gasket over the bowl's outlet horn.

Step 15

Ask your retailer to recommend a good caulk for this Too the bowl-to-floor joint must be sealed around the edge of the bowl's base', Another choice is to caulk the joint with bathtub caulk/sealant. Use about 2 lbs or. You can lay a bead of plumber's putty so it will be squeezed between the toilet and floor. Of plaster. This is probably the easiest method.

Step 16

You can rotate it a few degrees each way, too. And the wax gasket and toilet flange should meet the hold-down bolts should pass through their openings in the bowl base', Rock it carefully from front to back and side to side while pushing down hard to set the bowl onto the floor as well as onto its gasket. Then lower it gently. This forces out the excess wax. Or you'll have to go through the setting process all over again and replace the waxing ring don't raise the bowl from the floor while making adjustments Hold the bowl upright several inches off the floor so its outlet horn is directly above the toilet flange. As the bowl meets the floor, make sure it is level and square with the rear wall.

Step 17

Using a wrench at this point can break the bowl', Install two toilet studs with washers and nuts into the floor for the front two hole if the bowl has front-mounting holes Tighten the nuts finger-tight only. Drop washers over the hold-down bolts and thread on the brass nuts. Re-check both nuts for tightness after several days of use.

Step 18

Place two rubber washers against the tank and bowl. Install the two long brass tank-mounting bolts from inside the tank, sliding them down through the aligned holes', This finishes your bowl installation Set that in place on the bowl if there is a rubber tank cushion. If the toilet tank hardware comes separately, install it. The washer goes beveled side out. Draw the washers and nuts up gently and evenly until they are snug. Then pick up the tank and lower it gently into place on the back of the bowl. Remember that the trip lever nut probably has left-hand threads. And set it squarely into the flush valve opening in the bottom of the tank now take the rubber spud washer, which fits between the tank and bowl.

Step 19

You'll probably have a coupling nut for doing this. Don't use any pipe dope on these threads', Tighten the bowl hold-down bolts one turn (no more) beyond hand-tight. The nut threads onto the inlet and works perfectly with a flat-ended riser tube. Clean up any material that oozes out You can fill their recesses with plumber's putty (or bathtub caulk/sealant) and press them down over the bolts. About 3/4" below the top of the overflow tube check to see that the tank fills to the correct level. Further tightening should cure them if there are any leaks. Connect the tank's water supply to the inlet valve on the bottom left-hand side of the tank (as you face it). Turn on the water and observe the toilet tank as it fills. Cut off the ends, and install the trim caps if necessary.

Step 20

16. Now that your new toilet is installed', check the flashing mechanism and install the toilet seat with an Ellen Ranch, make sure that the toilet unit is tight and sturdy, sit on it and make sure it sits straight and tight. Use clear caulking around the perimeter of the bowl " where it touches the floor".

Enjoy your new toilet.

Our Company had been servicing Los Angeles and surrounding counties for over two decades, we are based out of Woodland Hills Ca. We hope that this information was informative and to your liking. ',